Hello here from Western Canada

Discussion in 'New Member Check In' started by Delavan, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Delavan New Member

    Member Since:
    Jul 11, 2017
    Message Count:
    11
    Howdy,
    New member here. I enjoy firearms, but never been very serious about it. I own an SKS, a Mosin, a Marlin 795 .22LR and a few shotties.

    I just picked an MVP 5.56mm Varmint combo a few days ago. Grey laminate/beavertail stock. Caldwell bipod and Deadringer 4-16x50AOE scope. The barrel is not extremely well centered in the stock, but unless I notice something bigger, I won't hold a grudge.

    I'm not a firearms expert by any means, and I chose 5.56mm/.223 for cheaper ammo cost and possible varmint hunting down the road. I like the compatibility with AR-style mags and NATO chambering.

    Never heard of Deadringer optics before, I was expecting a Barska. Deadringer made (or imported lol) a few scopes that are barely reviewed online, and they are more known for "truglo" type of bow/shotguns quick acquisition sights. I'm not saying my Deadringer is better, but it has illuminated reticle, some form of locking turret rings, 1/8 MOA clicks, etc. It looks like its got more features for adjustment. It's no VORTEX for sure.

    They are not listing my DR 47914-16 x 50 scope on their North
    American page. I found it on the turk catalogue. I bet they are a turkish manufacturer.

    MODEL: 4-16 50
    FIELD OF VIEW: 4°-1.16°
    EXIT PUPIL: 8.1-4.1MM
    EYE RELIEF INCH /MM: 4.02-3.03/102-77
    CLICK VALUE: 1/8 MOA @100YDS
    LENGTH INCH /MM: 14.96/380
    TUBE DIAMETER: 25.4MM
    W/E TURRET STYLE: LOCKABLE
    RETICLE: GLASS ETCHED RETICLE
    ILLUMINATION: RED ILLUMINATION IN THE CENTER
    COATING: FULLY MULTI-COATED GREEN


    I will read on here, learn from your experiences and report.

    I just zeroed it at 25 yards at this point, learning as I go. I shot some Hornady steel match and some Prvi Partizan (PPU) 55 grains with it...which might be me range rounds.

    My goal is to become proficient at 300 yards, an again maybe going coyote hunting if I find a partner down the road.
  2. spamassassin Well-Known Member

    Member Since:
    Aug 8, 2014
    Message Count:
    1,101
    See your other thread for reporting on the scope. You're in good shape to reach 300yrds. You should consider an ammo choice that leverages your gun fully. Something in a 65-70 grain will use the twist your rifle came with a bunch better and have massively better ballistics for long range shooting. The tight twist can open up groups with lighter bullets in the 55gn zone especially when using bulk/cheap ammo.

    Don't shoot any bullets that attract a magnet to the projectile itself. My original barrel was roasted by them pretty quickly. It's not like they're cheese graters but they are very hard on barrels.
  3. Delavan New Member

    Member Since:
    Jul 11, 2017
    Message Count:
    11
    Thanks for the advics. I did read a few of your posts/answers to posts and you are a good source of valuable info!

    I won't shoot surplus with this rifle. Ranges around here have the tendency to call "magnetic" projectiles "armor piercing"....so much for the crate of 7.62 x 39 on stripper clips or the half-crate for 7.62 x 54r I have purchased. Well, its bad for the backstops I bet. And I would not shoot corrosive thru a new rifle....

    I'm just sad to ear that I'll have to start buying extractors/springs/balls....I did "some" research before I bought and besides the "barska is blea" and sloppy bolt/not-a-tikka, I didn't know that there would be issues with weak parts....I wonder if Mossberg ever publicly stated that they are addressing the issues or even acknowledging there is?
  4. spamassassin Well-Known Member

    Member Since:
    Aug 8, 2014
    Message Count:
    1,101
    Honestly, all the parts are actually just fine. Mossbergs don't really fail most of the time, instead people break them doing dumb stuff mostly and a very few actually have failures that just happen like with any brand.

    Personally, I blew extractor after extractor shooting steel cased ammo, shooting fast, shooting the gun hot and leaving my ammo in the sun... Usually I'd do all of those things at one time. It was bad for the gun but necessary at the time. Pressures were nutty high (some easily over 80K psi) and it held together well. The only time I've busted an extractor since has been when I got way too exuberant with my handload powder charges chasing every last FPS and had to hammer the bolt open. The one I have in now has lasted quite a number of hundreds of rounds, some of them at stupid high pressures. It rattles when open but it's a hell of a gun. They can be made into something really special too and for not a lot of $$$.

    The FWAAAANG losing of extractor detent balls and extractor springs, happens on most push feed bolts when you pull the extractor out if you're not careful. The worst quality parts on the whole gun are generally the scope bases which are very cheap aluminum and soft as hell but even those are suitable to the general light use that these were built for. The rest of the gun is actually pretty stout if small in appearance. If you want to use it really hard then some light duty parts need replaced but that's like that on a Tikka or Remington or whatever brand. For general purpose, it's a serious bargain for folks without mag length issues.

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